Saturday, 3 August 2013

Shiants 2013

Those of you who follow my blog (is there anyone?) will know that during my recent ringing trip to America, I posted updates as I was going along. I extend my sincere apologies to anyone who was expecting the same thing from my recent trip ringing seabirds on the Shiants Isles.

The Shiants Isles have to be one of the most beautiful, atmospheric, mesmerising and unforgettable places I have ever been to. They are incredibly peaceful, yet can be deafeningly noisy. They are small and compact, yet full of mysteries. They are uninhabited, yet full to bursting with life. Most of all, they are a challenge and they certainly live up to their name; the ‘enchanted isles’.  

The Shiants comprise three main islands; House Island (where the bothy is), Rough Island and Mary Island. Rough Islands hosts the main puffin colony, the auk bolder colony, the bonxies, many of the gulls and shags and, if you are very lucky (I wasn’t), you might even see a white-tailed eagle on there! House Island is home to more shags and gulls, a few bonxies, a kittiwake colony, fulmars, smaller auk colonies and black rats! Mary Island has another puffin colony and lots of gulls; I have yet to visit this island.

House Island in the distance with the boulder
colony at Carnach Mhor in the foreground

Rough Island - we climbed this in 40+ mph winds on two
consecutive days (and came down in driving rain on one of them)

Mary Island from Rough Island
Very few people have ever heard of the Shiants Isles. This is because they are remote, located in the Hebrides in north-west Scotland about twelve miles north of Skye and four miles from Lewis. On a clear day you can see Skye, Lewis, Harris and mainland Scotland from the islands. On a bad day, you can see none of the above! The islands are uninhabited and have no running water, no electricity until dark when the generator we take with us is switched on (and dark that far north in the summer is late!), no ‘facilities’ and certainly no internet (except for patchy signal on smart phones). Few people have heard of them because few people are ever lucky enough to go there.

This year’s visit was my third adventure to this magical place. Each year at the end of June and the beginning of July, the Shiants Auk Ringing Group (SARG) spends two weeks ringing seabirds on the islands. The journey starts with a boat trip on the wonderful Sea Harris (http://www.seaharris.co.uk/) which we meet at Uig on Skye; the trip takes about an hour and a half (if you head straight there). This year the sea was a little choppy and I was beginning to regret not having popped a travel pill when the islands loomed out of the mist and both the sight of them and the promise of solid ground under my feet soon had me smiling again.  It wasn’t long before we were anchoring offshore and relaying everyone and everything we needed for the duration of the trip to the beach in a RIB and lugging it all to the campsite and bothy. After a much needed cuppa, it was all hands on tents as we battled the strong winds to get our tents up before the rain arrived.

Lovely dry tent ready to take on the worst the Minch has to offer
So, what do we go there to ring? Well, the islands are home to many thousands of birds but the primary focus for SARG is the auks. We undertake two RAS (Re-trapping Adults for Survival) projects, one on puffins and one on razorbills. We also try to ring as many razorbill chicks as possible. We ring guillemots (adults and chicks) and we colour ring the shags, bonxies (great skuas) and gulls (common, lesser and great black-backed). We ring any waders we find (and can catch) and we ring any storm petrels that we can persuade to come and visit us (by sound lure). We also try to ring the arctic tern chicks in the colony on Fladaigh Chuain, another small, uninhabited island that we visit en route to or from the Shaints. That is the theory anyway! 
Puffin RAS slope with Lewis in the
background (it is a bit steep up there!)

Puffin in mist net
This year’s trip was slightly different. Those of us on the second week of the trip were watching the weather forecast with interest from the moment we heard that the first week’s team were sailing on the Saturday rather than Sunday morning in order to dodge the wind. Hmmm, not an auspicious start! News then trickled through that not all of the birds had read the manual on when to breed. Things were late and there weren’t many auk chicks about. Then we heard that we might also be sailing on the Saturday instead of Sunday; then it was back to Sunday; then it was definitely get to Uig on Saturday just in case; then it was we are definitely going on the Saturday evening! Things were a little changeable – good old British weather!!! But, we made it over to the islands on Saturday evening and we were all set up and raring to go a day before we expected to be so we were a happy bunch of campers.

Then the rain came… and kept on coming. And then the winds came to join the party. The Minch had decided to test out our camping gear! Unfortunately, some were left wanting but I was one of the lucky ones who had a strong, waterproof and cosy home for the week. I love my tent! So, Sunday was a complete washout, which I was actually not too sorry about as I had arrived on the islands somewhat shattered so a day of doing nothing was just what I needed. After all, we had the rest of the week to blitz the ringing… didn’t we?

Well, actually no, not quite. This year the Hebrides decided to throw everything at us; gale force winds, driving rain, cold…you get the picture. But did we let it stop us? Of course not, we are ringers after all! When the RIB wouldn’t work, we just walked into the bolder colony. When it was too windy to drive the RIB, we walked over the top of Rough Island to get to where we needed to be. When the storms threatened, we hunkered down and waited them out. When the winds were too strong to keep mist nets up… well, then we took them down, sulked a little and admitted defeat!
 

Juvenile (last year's young) razorbill above and comparison of
wings with an adult bird below
Despite the weather, we successfully managed to undertake both RAS projects, ringed as many of the gull chicks as we could find, spent a fair amount of time in the boulder colony and so on. However, the provisional ringing totals for 2013 suggest that we ringed significantly fewer birds this year than during the previous two trips that I have been on, which was for the most part due to the lack of ringable chicks. Whereas we would normally ring c. 500 razorbill, guillemot and shag chicks, this year we managed approximately 30! For some reason, these birds (and the bonxies) were late breeding this year (or seemingly hadn’t attempted to breed in the case of the shags). Those that had bred, were mostly still on eggs and the young that were around were mostly too small to ring. Strangely, the puffins, gulls, waders and terns all seemed to be on time with their breeding. Sadly, the storm petrels were also conspicuous by their absence. Despite three attempts over the two weeks, only four birds were caught. We put up a net on our last night (the only night calm enough to try) but sadly, to no avail.

Common gull chick


On Wednesday, a team from the BBC Coast programme joined us to film the puffin RAS and talk to Ian and David (two of the original members of the SARG) about old puffins. We managed to find them a 30 year old, which they seemed quite pleased about!


Coast crew filming Ian on puffin RAS slope
The team with the BBC Coast crew on the last day (thanks to
Charlie E for the photo)
As is typical, our last evening on the islands was glorious which gave us chance to visit the lesser black-backed colony (only three chicks found) and gave me the chance to try to snap some photos of the elusive black rat. The trip home on Sunday was flat calm (surreally so) which meant we could land on Fladaigh Chuain to ring the arctic tern chicks, a few shag chicks and, much to Ian’s delight, a single black guillemot (tystie) chick. Hearing the tysties calling / singing so close was an experience I won’t forget in a hurry!


 
Black rats. If you look closely, you might just be able to see
the peanut butter lure
 
Arctic tern chicks
 
Black guillemot (tystie) chick and egg

 
Beautiful tysties on Fladaigh Chuain
Shag on Fladaigh Chuain
The Sea Harris with the Shiants Isles behind
 
The Shiants Isles from Fladaigh Chuain


So, all in all, this year’s trip was dominated by the weather and the late breeding season. Despite the challenging conditions it was (as always) a fantastic week which was thoroughly enjoyed by all of us. Roll on next year!

The obligatory Sea Room tribute photo at the top of Rough Island,
with Mary Island behind (thanks to Bob for the photo)
The obligatory last morning team photo (thanks to Charlie M for photo)
The obligatory 'on the boat heading home' photo (thanks to
Bob for the photo)
The slow ringing also allowed me the opportunity to play with my camera a little. Below is a selection of my favourite shots. I particularly had fun taking pictures of birds in flight this year.
 


Arctic terns
Fulmar

Bonxie (great skua)
Guillemot

Herring gull

Razorbill

Oystercatcher

Oystercatcher

Possible intermediate phase fulmar?


Puffins

Razorbill
The Galtas (with Lewis behind)
Guillemot
Ringed guillemot taking off
Bridled guillemot being whacked by a razorbill
Southern end of House Island
 










A stupid number of puffin shots (believe me this is the edited
selection). I would apologise but they are just too cute!

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